How to read Japanese auction sheet
Beginner Guide

How to Read a Japanese Auction Sheet: A Beginner's Guide for First-Time Importers

December 24, 2025
10 min read

If you're new to importing cars from Japan, auction sheets can look intimidating. The codes, grades, and diagrams seem like a foreign language designed to confuse rather than inform. But here's the good news: once you understand the system, it becomes straightforward.

This guide will walk you through reading a Japanese auction sheet step-by-step. We'll break down the four key sections, explain what each part means, and show you how to spot potential issues before you bid. By the end, you'll feel confident reviewing auction sheets on your own.

At UMZE Autohaus, we've helped hundreds of first-time importers navigate Japanese auctions. We know what questions buyers have and what mistakes to avoid. This guide shares that experience with you.

The 4 Key Sections of an Auction Sheet

Every auction sheet follows the same structure. Once you know where to look, you can quickly assess a vehicle's condition.

Overall Condition

The main grade that summarises the vehicle's overall state

Interior Condition

How the inside of the car looks and feels

Vehicle Features & Options

What equipment and extras the car has

Vehicle Diagram

A map showing where damage or repairs are located

Overall Condition Grades Explained

The overall grade is the first thing you see, and it gives you a quick sense of the vehicle's condition. But remember, this is just a starting point.

Grade 6Showroom condition. Like new, often with very low kilometres.
Grade 5Excellent condition. Minimal wear, well-maintained.
Grade 4Good used condition. Normal wear for age and kilometres.
Grade 3Heavily used. Significant wear but still driveable.
Grade 2Poor condition. Major issues, likely needs significant work.
Grade 1Very poor. May not be roadworthy or require extensive repairs.
Grade 0Not roadworthy. Often used for parts only.

Modified Vehicles:

Modified vehicles often have grades like "M5" or "M4" (M = Modified). These cars may have aftermarket parts, engine upgrades, or suspension modifications. The grade reflects the overall condition, not the modifications themselves.

Accident and Repair Grades:

Vehicles with accident history use different grading:

  • RA: Minor accident repair. Structural work completed to standard.
  • R: Major accident or structural damage. Requires careful assessment.
  • A: Accident damage, not repaired.

Important: Lower grades may still be acceptable if you understand what you're getting. A Grade 3 car might be perfect for a project car if the price reflects its condition.

Interior Condition Grades

The interior grade tells you about the car's inside condition. This is important because interior wear affects your daily experience more than you might think.

Grade ALike new. Minimal wear, clean, no stains or damage.
Grade BGood condition. Normal wear for kilometres, minor scuffs.
Grade CNoticeable wear. Some stains, worn seats, but functional.
Grade DHeavy wear. Significant damage, tears, or smells.

What's Normal Wear?

For a car with 100,000 kilometres, you'd expect:

  • • Slight wear on driver's seat
  • • Minor scuffs on door panels
  • • Some fading on steering wheel

Red flag: If the interior grade is significantly lower than the overall grade, ask why. This could indicate hidden issues or poor maintenance.

Vehicle Features & Options

This section lists what equipment and extras the car has. It's important to understand what you're getting, but remember: features don't equal condition.

Common Feature Codes:

ATAutomatic transmission
MTManual transmission
4WDFour-wheel drive
A/CAir conditioning
PSPower steering
PBPower brakes
CDCD player
DVDDVD navigation
LLeather seats
SRSAirbags

Important Note:

Just because a car has lots of features doesn't mean it's in good condition. Always focus on the condition grades first, then look at features. A Grade 4 car with basic features is often a better buy than a Grade 3 car loaded with options.

Vehicle Diagram Codes

The diagram shows the car from above with codes indicating where damage or repairs are located. This is one of the most important sections to understand.

Cosmetic Issues:

  • • A1–A3: Scratches (light to severe)
  • • U1–U3: Dents (small to large)
  • • W: Paint waves or panel misalignment
  • • S: Rust spots

Repair Indicators:

  • • X: Panel replacement
  • • XX: Multiple panel replacements
  • • Y: Welding or structural repair
  • • Z: Paint repair

What's Cosmetic vs Serious:

Cosmetic: Scratches, dents, and paint issues. These affect appearance but not safety or functionality.

Serious: Panel replacements (X, XX), welding (Y), and structural repairs. These indicate accident damage that may affect safety and resale value.

Inspectors may differ: Different inspectors might interpret damage differently. Always look at photos and ask for clarification if something seems unclear.

Real-World Examples

Two cars with similar grades can look very different on paper. Here's why it's important to look at all sections together.

Car A: Grade 4

  • • Interior: Grade B
  • • Diagram: A1 (front bumper), U1 (hood)
  • • Notes: "Minor front end damage, repainted"

Assessment: Good condition with minor cosmetic front damage. Good value for the grade.

Car B: Grade 4

  • • Interior: Grade D
  • • Diagram: X (front fender), X (hood), U3 (roof)
  • • Notes: "Multiple panel replacements, interior stains"

Assessment: Poor interior, multiple structural repairs. Price should reflect these issues.

The Importance of Photos:

Always request additional photos based on the auction sheet. If the diagram shows front damage, ask for detailed photos of that area. Photos + notes + diagrams together give you the complete picture.

Common Mistakes Buyers Make

Even experienced buyers make these mistakes. Learn from them to avoid costly errors.

Bidding on Grade Alone

Seeing a Grade 4 car and bidding without checking interior, diagram, or notes. The overall grade is just one piece of the puzzle.

Ignoring Comments

Skipping the handwritten notes. These often reveal important issues that aren't in the standard codes.

Underestimating Repair Costs

Assuming minor damage will be cheap to fix. What looks like a simple dent might require panel replacement and painting.

How UMZE Autohaus Helps

We understand that reading auction sheets can be overwhelming, especially for first-time importers. That's why we offer complete support throughout the process.

Complete Auction Sheet Translation

Every code, comment, and diagram is explained in plain English. We ensure you understand exactly what you're looking at.

Additional Photo Requests

Based on the auction sheet, we request extra photos of concerning areas. This gives you a complete picture before bidding.

Risk Assessment

We highlight potential issues and provide our professional assessment. You'll know exactly what you're getting into.

Peace of Mind

Our goal is to help you make informed decisions. With our support, you can bid with confidence knowing you've seen the full picture.

Our Promise:

We focus on transparency and informed decisions. Every potential issue is highlighted before you commit. Our goal is to ensure you're completely comfortable with your purchase.

Conclusion

Reading Japanese auction sheets might seem complex at first, but it becomes straightforward once you understand the system. The key is to look at all sections together - overall grade, interior grade, features, and the diagram.

Remember: grades are a starting point, not the final word. The most important information is often in the detailed notes and diagrams. Take your time, ask questions, and don't rush into a bid.

If you're still unsure, that's completely normal. Japanese auctions are complex, and there's a reason experienced importers rely on experts. UMZE Autohaus is here to help you navigate the process with confidence.

Ready to import but want expert guidance?

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